We make two types of Bespoke jackets.

1. Bespoke Jackets with full floating body canvas attached by hand in the traditional way.

2. Bespoke jackets with a bonded body canvas with a half chest canvas, also attached by hand. 

To start the process, you first need to choose the cloth, lining and decide whether you want a full floating canvas or a half canvas. We can discuss the style you would like and see what is current and suits you and your body type the best. 

We have a large variety of cloth in stock on our shelves in the show room, we also have swatch books from some of the best cloth company’s in the UK including Holland & Sherry, Bateman Ogden, Dugdale Bros, Harrison’s and Huddersfield fine worsteds amongst others. We also have a wide selection of linings to choose from and swatch books from The lining company, Richard James Dugdale, Bateman and others.

Once we have discussed the style and you have chosen the cloth, we need to take all the measurements required to cut your bespoke suit.

We normally have three fittings, all at different stages:

The first fitting is a rough baste. The body canvas has been attached to the front of the jacket and then the front and back are put together just to get the balance right. It’s then taken apart and recut.

The second fitting is the pocket baste fitting. At this stage, the jacket pockets have been made and the chest canvas has been attached to the body canvas, which is then attached to the front of the jacket. The front and back are put together and then the collar and sleeves are added (it’s good to have a shirt for this fitting). This is where it begins to look like a jacket! The first fitting for the trousers are also ready at this stage, so you will need your shoes.

Once the fitting has finished, the jacket is then taken apart and recut again.

The third fitting is the full forward fitting. The linings and facings have been put in and the only thing we need to do at this stage of the fitting is fine tuning, i.e. adjust the sleeve lengths or shoulders etc. Once this fitting is done and the trousers are re fitted, its time to finish off the suit by making the sleeves and collar and carrying out all the hand finishing e.g. the button holes, edge stitching and lining which is all done by hand. Once this is all completed, the final thing to do is to press the suit and add the buttons.

Your new Bespoke suit is ready to collect!

The whole process, all the way from choosing the cloth and taking your measurements through to collecting the finished bespoke suit, takes around six to eight weeks. In some cases, we can make the suit quicker if we are not too busy and you are flexible with regards to coming in for fittings.

Please note that in busy times it could take longer, so to avoid any disappointment please come in early and leave plenty of time ahead of the date you may need the Suit for.